Plan Your Trip!
The Holland America Line has 14 ships in its fleet that sail on 500 cruises to 320 ports around the world each year. They even offer two 108-day cruises around the world. In 2010, the ms Nieuw Amsterdam will join the fleet. Learn more at hollandamerica.com
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It’s the one objective most Western Washington families can agree upon each year as they gather around the dinner table – or more likely the computer – to plan their vacations. The kids want Disneyland. Mom argues for any sandy, sunny spot with palm trees. Dad would rather camp — Eastern Washington’s close. The debate continues, until a pop-up ad on a travel Web site tosses a curveball: Alaska cruises. Click here. Hmm …
In September, 425 magazine followed that link, so to speak, allowing it to take us for eight days and seven nights from Seattle to Juneau via the scenic Inside Passage. We traveled aboard Holland America Line’s 1,916-passenger ms Westerdam. The trip featured breathtaking scenery, to-die-for food and, yes, even some sunshine. And even when the sun’s rays were masked by dark storm clouds, we found that Alaska was indeed someplace warm. The ship’s welcoming crew, accommodating staff and the friendly people we met along the way made sure of that.
“Alaska remains one of the most beautiful, pristine places in the entire world. I’ve seen a lot of places,” said Capt. Henk Keijer, who has been working for Holland America for 17½ years. He cruises around the world but says Alaska is one of his favorite trips to make.
Days 1 + 2
At Sea
It takes three days to get to Juneau (our first port stop) from Seattle. And while that seems like a long time and you might think that you’d surely get cabin fever, think again. For starters, one of the best parts about cruising is that you can sit back, relax and enjoy the view — especially if you have a stateroom with a deck like we did. A majority of the rooms on the ms Westerdam offer this option. There’s nothing like sitting outside with a good book under a thick blanket while the ocean breeze blows. Getting a stateroom with a view is worth spending more for. Some people we talked to planned to spend most of their time there unwinding.
Want more relaxation? Head to the spa for a hot stone massage, pedicure, and haircut — or even to get your teeth whitened (watch for the specials that pop up throughout the week and save some money). The hydrotherapy pool is amazing and heated lounging chairs in the thermal room will put you to sleep like a baby.
If you’re feeling lucky, you can let it ride in the casino, play bingo or join one of the many scavenger hunts. Dance the night away in the dance club or sing your heart out in the piano bar. Or catch a show, take a margarita mixology class, learn how to edit photos like a pro, shop, buy art at an auction, or just lounge at the pool.
And then there’s the food! You can get everything from hot dogs and fries to filet mignon and lobster bisque in the various dining areas on the Westerdam. And if you don’t want to leave your room, the in-room dining service will come to you. Cookies and milk at midnight never tasted so good. If this is making your waistband feel tighter, head to the gym — it has a stunning view of the sea.
The best thing about cruising is that you don’t have to do much thinking. An itinerary is delivered every evening to your freshly organized room, along with a happy towel critter on the bed, and little gold-wrapped chocolates. In the morning, breakfast — and fresh coffee — is delivered to your room if you choose.
Day 3
Glacier Bay National Park
About 250 years ago, sailing into Glacier Bay National Park would have been impossible — it was all a solid 100-mile river of ice. The geography has since changed, but the past is still present in the form of massive glaciers that surround the bay like blue rock candy, and icebergs that bob in the water — making you feel like you’re in the center of nature’s very own punch bowl. It’s breathtakingly beautiful — 3.3-million acres of steep mountains, lush forests, glaciers, crystal waters and wildlife. It’s so special that it’s one of the world’s largest protected natural areas.
During the cruise we spent the day here marveling at the beauty of it all. Most people got bundled up and hit the outside decks, where hot coffee and cocoa was being served. Then they just watched and waited. The lucky ones like us witnessed the glaciers calving, which is when a large chunk of ices falls off and crashes into the water below. The sound and site of that natural wonder will not soon be forgotten. Everything in Glacier Bay is picture-perfect and Holland America is one of the few companies cleared to sail there.
Day 4
Juneau
You can see the state Capitol as you pull into the city of Juneau, but don’t expect to be able to spot it without some assistance. Sarah Palin’s former workplace is one of only 10 state capitols without a dome, allowing the building to blend in with the other structures in the hillside city nestled between Mount Juneau and Mount Roberts. Included among them is the informative Alaska State Museum, which features more than 27,000 artifacts relevant to the diverse history of our 49th state. There, you’ll find exhibits on Alaska natives, Russian-America, mining and minerals, maritime history and much more. Another of the city’s highlights is the nearby Alaskan Hotel, with its stained-glass picture windows. The hotel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and certainly worth a visit.
While tours of Juneau are available and the city does have enough charm to make such outings worthwhile, it’s generally not the city proper most tourists are excited about seeing. That title most likely goes to 12-mile-long Mendenhall Glacier, Alaska’s most-popular, yet steadily retreating, river of ice.
Whale watching is another favorite pastime for tourists and locals alike. In fact, there are so many whales in the area that many of the guide companies will guarantee you will see one, or you’ll get a partial refund on the cost of your voyage. We didn’t receive a refund and this is one of the rare times we were glad we didn’t. On our two-hour boat trip around Stephens Passage, we spotted about five or six, although it’s difficult to determine if we weren’t just seeing the same two or three whales popping up in different places.
Other popular Juneau excursions include canoeing, hiking, sea kayaking and trips to the Alaska Gastineau Mill, which once was the world’s largest gold-producing refinery. Though the mill has long since been retired, there still are treasures being found in them thar hills. Visitors are encouraged to pan for it and they get to keep whatever they might find.
Day 5
Tracy Arm-Fjord
When Mother Nature decided to throw some hurricane-force winds into our voyage, the Westerdam’s planned stop at the Russian-influenced city of Sitka had to be canceled. But rather than disappoint his passengers, the ship’s captain decided to take a slight detour for the trip’s fourth day, and swing south of Juneau into the glacial fjord known as Tracy Arm. It’s safe to say few passengers were disappointed by the change of plans. In fact, most were happy about it.
The ship entered Tracy Arm-Fjord at 6 a.m., passed the spectacular Ice Falls an hour later and then cruised through the ice-carved fjord to Sawyer Glacier. Chunks of ice, many as big as cars and some so deep blue that they are difficult to describe, floated alongside the ship as it carved through the waterway before turning around and exiting the fjord to the next port of call.
Day 6
Ketchikan
Ketchikan is a welcoming little town with big charm. As we pulled into the port, the fog was wrapping around the steep hillsides that were dotted with trees and houses. It rains a lot here, but we got lucky.
It’s easy to walk off the ship and explore the town on foot. We headed to the Ketchikan Coffee Co. for some local brew — very tasty — and browsed the stores. One thing that stands out in both Juneau and Ketchikan are the numerous jewelry companies competing for tourist dollars. There are some fabulous deals to be found when it comes to jewelry and other goods.
Historic Creek Street is interesting. It was once the city’s red-light district and the star of the street still is Dolly’s House — home to Madam Dolly Copeland Arthur from 1919 to the
mid-1970s. Arthur had quite the reputation. Today, the building is a period museum open for tours and pictures with a “madam.” The creek runs through the center of town, and the homes there are built on wooden stilts. When we were there, the creek was full of spawning salmon.
Ketchikan also is home to the Saxman Native Village. The Tlingits are the original settlers of the area and tours of their village are open to the public. They share their history, and welcome guests into their clan house and take people on a tour of totem poles. Master totem-pole carver Nathan Jackson is there, too, and often can be seen working on his latest masterpiece in the Saxman Carving Shed. Jackson’s works are ubiquitous — you can find them in museums across the world and in every major museum in the state of Alaska. A visit to Saxman is an enriching experience that shouldn’t be missed.
Another highlight of the area is the Misty Fjords National Monument. The only way to get there is by boat or floatplane. It’s a great area to see wildlife, including bears, harbor seals and whales.
Day 7
Victoria, B.C.
As always, British Columbia’s capital was beautiful. We arrived during the evening and enjoyed seeing the Fairmont Empress Hotel, Victorian-style legislative buildings and the city itself, which was busy with activity from the passengers of the many ships docked at the port. Many of those passengers hopped the first bus (some were British-style, red double-deckers) or vans and headed straight for the popular Butchart Gardens, located outside the city. At night, the gardens light up, making for an enchanting experience.
Day 8
Seattle
Since we’re from the area, we decided to skip the excursions offered in Seattle and head home, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of them. And a lot of people — folks from around the world — were excited to check out the Emerald City. As we pulled into Seattle, it was a beautiful sight. When we left the week before on our way to our Alaskan adventure, it was raining. But on this day, the sun shined — a perfect ending to a perfect trip.
For the full story pick up the latest copy of 425 magazine. Subscriptions are available by phone at 425.646.1380 or you may order your subscription online.
