Take a Hike

The Edge of the World - Don’t Shy Away From Shi Shi

L. Lisa Lawrence L. Lisa Lawrence is a local freelance photographer and writer and an avid hiker, backpacker, skier, cyclist and snowshoer. She has worked in the outdoor field for more than 20 years as a park ranger, river guide, ski instructor and an environmental educator and often field tests gear and apparel.

There is a place where the raw, pounding, awesome power of the sea coexists with serene natural beauty and calm. It is a primitive place where the powers of creation and destruction are in perfect balance.

A trip to Shi Shi (pronounced “shy shy”) Beach via Neah Bay on the Makah Indian reservation is a trip back in time, and a salve for the soul. Nearby Cape Flattery is the Northwestern-most point in the contiguous United States. Bordered by the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the expansive Pacific Ocean. To be there is to truly stand at the edge of the world.

Otters frolic in the surf and bald eagles soar overhead. Visual treasures await those willing to climb and scramble over barnacle-covered rocks at low tide to explore some of the most amazing tidal pools in the area. Purple sea stars, bright green and pink anemones, and scuttling hermit crabs wait to delight the hiker willing to go the extra miles to explore the area. Shi Shi Beach is one of the few places where one can find solitude even on a holiday weekend.

There’s a good reason for this. It’s a long drive, about four-and-a-half hours from Bellevue, difficult to get to, and depending on your plans, can require permits from two different governments, as well as a fee for overnight parking in one of the locals’ yards. You will find other people there, but you will not feel like they are violating your space or infringing on your experience.

This area of Olympic National Park is part of the North Wilderness Coast Hike, which spans 60 miles of spectacular, wild Washington state coast. You can hike for a day or for several days.
Once you enter the Makah reservation, you will need to stop at the tribal center, Washburn’s General Store or another location to purchase an annual recreation permit. Permits cost $10. You get a map and a listing of attractions including recreational day use beaches, the Cape Flattery Trail and the Makah Museum, which has been recognized as one of the finest tribal museums in the country.

If you’re only hiking for the day, you can proceed to the newly improved Shi Shi day-use trailhead and park there. If you’re staying overnight, there are several residents who offer parking for a reasonable cost.
For those backpacking, a stop at the Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles or the Park Service office in Forks will provide you with a wealth of information. Rangers offer advice and you’ll have the opportunity to rent a hard-sided food container, which is required for all coastal camping, and will be given coffee filters to avoid the sediment in the coastal creeks from plugging up your water filter.

The first portion of this trail is well-maintained, crossing pea gravel and boardwalks. The second half is most often a boot-sucking, muddy slog. Bring your gaiters.

After nearly two miles, you will hear the roar of the ocean. There are several overlooks, and you may see a migrating gray whale spouting. Once you enter the Olympic National Park Boundary, you will have your last chance to register for your wilderness permit at a self-service station.

The next portion of the trail is a short, yet steep and often-challenging descent down to the beach. It can be muddy and slippery if there have been recent rains.

Once on the beach, the dedicated hiker is rewarded with a spectacular panorama. To the north, see bonsai-like trees, sculpted by wind and storms, clinging to rock formations, and Cape Flattery and Tattoosh Island. To the south lies the Point of the Arches, the most-popular destination in the area.

Hike south for two miles and cross Petroleum Creek. At low tide, it’s easy to wander across; at higher tide, one should wear shoes or boots they don’t mind getting wet, or try to cross on rocks or logs.
Once across, continue another mile to Point of the Arches for tide pool exploring and sunsets so spectacular they defy description. Those with the proper gear, tide charts and permits can begin the journey to Ozette and other destinations south.

how to get there
The drive to Neah Bay on the Makah Indian reservation is an experience in itself. No matter how one chooses to access this Northwestern-most portion of the state, the views are amazing and the journey inspiring. Highway 112 leading to Neah Bay from nearby Port Angeles, winds its way along the Strait of Juan de Fuca, offering views of the strait and on a clear day, of Canada. Soon, the view opens up to the Pacific Ocean, and you’ll arrive at the edge of the world.

on the web
To find out more information, visit
makah.com/shishi
or nps.gov

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